The Albanian Alps: the back story

Shkodër, a cycling town by the largest lake in Southern Europe, is the gateway to the Albanian Alps. Beyond it lie the mountain valleys of Theth and Valbona, joined by a classic pass and a lake ferry.

Shkodër and its lake

Rozafa Castle rises above Shkodër, the lake and the Buna and Drin rivers; legend says a bride named Rozafa was walled into its foundations. In town, locals cycle along the restored Kolë Idromeno street, and a short ride leads to the humped stone Mes Bridge, built around 1770, or to a fish lunch by the lake at Shirokë.

Into Theth

Theth lies in a high valley ringed by peaks, at the heart of its national park. Family guesthouses cook from their own gardens, and the lock-in tower recalls the old customary law, the Kanun. A riverside walk of a few hours leads to the Blue Eye, a turquoise pool that stays ice-cold even in August.

Over to Valbona

The Valbona valley is broader and gentler, with guesthouses along the river beneath the Accursed Mountains. The day-long hike over the Valbona Pass links it to Theth, best from June to September. Combine it with the Lake Koman ferry for one of the great journeys of the Balkans.

The Valbona Pass between the two valleys is about 1,800 metres high.

Our advice: Book mountain guesthouses ahead in summer, and outside May to October check that they are open.