The wooden village of Drvengrad on Mećavnik hill at Mokra Gora, built by Emir Kusturica for his film Life Is a Miracle The yellow church tower and red roofs of old Zemun above the Danube, Belgrade Kotor’s old town and the bay from the fortress walls, Montenegro
The red carriages of the Glacier Express crossing the stone arches of the Landwasser Viaduct below a snow-capped peakSister guideULTIMATE Rail JourneysThe great train journeys and where to book themA cruise ship in the Bay of Kotor, MontenegroSister guideULTIMATE CruisesLines, ships and itineraries, from river to expeditionThe Matterhorn in winter above ZermattSister guideULTIMATE Ski ResortsSeason dates, hotels and ski schools, resort by resortThe Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and its gardens, Saint-Jean-Cap-FerratSister guideULTIMATE PropertyThinking of buying in the Balkans? Markets, agents and how the purchase works

Your trusted guide to the Balkans

ULTIMATE Balkans is our magazine of the region, across seven countries: Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Slovenia and Albania. It brings an introduction to the region, a long read on the life its cities share, four themed guides to food and drink, markets, wildlife and the seasons, and a long read on Balkan cinema.

Every story links straight into our city guides, where each place has been chosen and checked by our editors.

The Balkans

Ljubljana, Zagreb, Belgrade, Sarajevo, Podgorica, Skopje and Tirana: the café, the market, the table and the wild places they share.

Bosnian coffee in a copper džezva, with a fildžan cup and sugar cubesThe regionThe Balkans, with loveCafés, markets, the table and the welcomeHand-painted clay dishes for tavče gravče on a stall at Bit Pazar, SkopjeThe regionThe Balkan SoulThe long read: the life the region sharesGrilled ćevapi with fries and kajmakFood & DrinkFood & Drink in the BalkansThe shared table, guide by guide

Our advice

Come in the autumn

If you can choose, come in late September or October, when the heat has gone, the hills are turning and the festivals are on. Seasons & festivals

The ULTIMATE City Guides around the world

See all Europe

Planning a longer journey? Each city in the network has its own independent guide, written with the same care and checked place by place. Here are the guides that are live, with more on the way.

See all 92 guides

The ULTIMATE letter

Letters from the Balkans

An occasional email with our new Balkan stories. No spam, ever.